Alcohol is the spirit of Prohibition Pastries
When Eliza Jane Bowman volunteered at a bottling event at East End Brewing Co. in Pittsburgh’s Larimer neighborhood several years ago, she noticed cases of barleywine sitting in the warehouse. Owner Scott Smith said it had gone flat and wasn’t worth anything.
She saw a value to it.
“I told him that I would take a bottle of the barleywine,” said Bowman, who lives in nearby Point Breeze. “I made barleywine pretzel rolls.”
East End had 1,600 bottles of the carbonation-depleted beverage. “We tried everything, even selling it at a discounted price,” he said. “Flat beer doesn’t sell. But it tastes great in Eliza’s barleywine pretzel rolls topped with her beer cheese.”
The alcohol-infused bread helped with the rise of Bowman’s business, Prohibition Pastries. She bakes with spirits from local distilleries and breweries.
The bakery opened four years ago in Point Breeze. That location is temporarily closed because its size doesn’t allow for safe distancing between shoppers during the pandemic.
Bowman now has a second store in East Liberty, which is three times larger at 1,100-square feet.
“Yes, I opened during a pandemic and yes, I opened on a Friday the 13th,” she said. “But things are going well. The business has been well-received.”
Everything is takeout only.
Known for savory hand pies and sweet, “booze-centricbakes” such as gin and ginger peach, apple whiskey, winter ale pecan and rum coconut cream pies, Bowman’s bakery collaborates with spirits, wine and other craft beverages.
Pennsylvania connections include Wigle Whiskey, Bluecoat American Dry Gin, Maggie’s Farm Rum and Commonplace Coffee. She incorporates Wigle Whiskey into the apple pie and makes a key lime pie with Maggie’s Farm Rum. Bowman also uses seasonal ingredients such as berries and citrus from local farms.
A deep-dish, 10-inch pie is $15-$20.
Bowman transitioned to an online pre-order system and created subscription-based programs such as the Pie Club. Every first Friday of the month, subscribers get an option of one 9-inch sweet pie for $15 to one 9-inch sweet pie, two pot pies, four hand-pies and six turnovers for $100.
Bowman said incorporating spirits into baked goods doesn’t give them an alcohol taste.
“Using alcohol is a great way to transfer flavor,” she said. “Most of these products aren’t super boozy. We do make some truffles that taste a little bit like alcohol.” The alcohol itself dissipates in the baking process, making them safe for all ages.
Bowman’s English and Irish style baking is all from scratch. Her love of the craft started in her grandma’s kitchen, cooking sticky buns. She still makes her late grandmother Ada Lou Ross’ recipe of cinnamon rolls, pecans and maple glaze — no alcohol, though.
Bowman said you don’t have to be a scientist to be a baker. A lot of it comes from experience and getting the feel of the dough.
“Eliza makes a wonderful product,” said Jean Lange of Brookline, a member of the Pie Club. “She cares about the customer and knows me by name. These pies are better than any others I have ever tasted. Everything is so good here.”
She also collaborated on the “East End Survival Kits.” A $225 three-week subscription includes a box of 12-ounce, whole bean coffee from Commonplace Coffee, bread and pastries from Prohibition Pastries, a four-pack of all-natural sodas from Barmy Soda Co., a selection of fare from chef Kate Romane of Black Radish Kitchen and a four-pack of various beers from East End Brewing Co. Customers pick up the packages at the brewery’s Larimer site.
“In this ever-changing environment, we as small businesses must do what we can to help each other,” said Brendan Benson, founder of Barmy Soda Co. in Larimer. “This survival kit idea was born out of that sentiment.”
Smith said the survival kits are a way to reach customers in a new way. That is needed more than ever with some people opting for a dry January.
“That really affects our revenue stream,” Smith said. “We have some low-alcohol beers and other drinks we can offer. There will be some lean days ahead, but being able to collaborate with other businesses like Eliza’s can help keep us all going.”
Even with beer gone flat.
Prohibition Pastries is located at 6168 Centre Ave., near the intersection with Penn Avenue, in East Liberty.
Hours are 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays.
JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a TribLive reporter covering the region's diverse culinary scene and unique homes. She writes features about interesting people. The Edward R. Murrow award-winning journalist began her career as a sports reporter. She has been with the Trib for 26 years and is the author of "A Daughter's Promise." She can be reached at jharrop@triblive.com.
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